5/2/2023 0 Comments Poncho hoodieMy poncho already had a pocket, but it was placed on the inside. Then simply pin your pattern to the fabric and add an additional 1,5 cm (0,6 inch) seam allowance to the creased part. You should end up with four pieces, where the sleeves are mirrors of each other. If there is a visual difference in the right and wrong side of the fabric, be sure to cut out the correct matching pieces. If you have stripes in your fabric, you should position you sleeve pattern so that the stripes are straight in the center. I measured how big the larger piece of the sleeve could be (which was around 27 cm out of 43 cm including the seam allowances) and creased the pattern to fit. The stripes of the fabric also help to hide the seam, so I tried to chose two contrasting, whole stripes to fall around the seam. To make the seam line less visible, I moved it to the back of the sleeve, thus making the two sleeve pieces asymmetrical. From the fabric that was left on each side after cutting out the torso, I didn't have enough to cut the sleeves out in one piece, so here comes a fabric saving trick. Since I was using an existing garment, I was limited in the fabric department. Mirror the other side of the sleeve by folding the paper at the centerline and tracing.Technically you should widen your hem a bit (since the sleeve is tapered), but when the sleeve angle is low, you can just draw the hem straight down. NB! Since the hem will be folded up, it should be cut so that the hem line has the same width as the sleeve 4 cm in (see the sketch).I added 4 cm (1,5 inch) at the bottom and 1,5cm (0,6 inch) around the rest. Connect the bottom of the sleeve to the armhole.If you chose to adjust your sleeve length or width, add them now by elongating the centerline and drawing a perpendicular line at the end, corresponding to the sleeve width.Be sure that the curve is almost straight at the shoulder cap top point. I used a large bowl and lid to create a nice curve. Adjust the shoulder cap curve so it is nice and continuous.Trace right up to the seam around the shoulder. I wanted mine to be 4 cm longer and 2 x 2cm wider ( 4 cm wider in the circumference). Put on your template shirt on and see if you want it longer/shorter or wider around the wrists.Using parchment paper would make the mirroring part easier, but it may result in a less sturdy pattern if you want to reuse it later. I didn't have that, but I found a shirt that fit me well around the shoulder and self-drafted it longer and wider. I wanted the sleeves to be narrower around the armhole and wider at the wrists.Ī non-stretchy pyjamas would be great as they typically also have quite straight sleeves. I found, that most of my hoodies have a quite different sleeve pattern, where the sleeve starts very wide around the shoulder and ends very narrow with an elastic. In this case, you want to find something that either doesn't have any stretch or fits you without stretching. This project had quite a few steps, but it is fairly easy and anyone with minimal sewing machine experience should be able to follow it.įind a shirt where the sleeves fit you well. My poncho already had a hood, but if you wanted, you could try making it from a blanket or just some fabric, and add a hood following a different tutorial. This type of hoodie also has some wide, seemingly straight, sleeves, and getting those right was of essence. It means that you have to be careful if you decide to trace parts of the design from existing clothes and always try it on to see if it fits well before sewing. Since the fabric of this type of hoodie is typically woven of either cotton or wool, it is not stretchy at all. I couldn't find any good, free tutorials online for a baja style hoodie, so I decided to improvise one. I wanted to downsize it and add some sleeves for a cozy hoodie around the house. I really liked the fabric pattern, but the size and cut made it very impractical, so I hardly ever wore it. A couple of years back I bought this huge poncho.
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